During this period we began our migration south.  We know the time is right because we have been sharing our anchorages with geese, racing with butterflies across bays, and joining a flock of cruisers all heading south.

Along the way we stopped in the Booth Bay region to settle up with the Marina where our instruments were repaired after the lightning strike and pick up some items we had shipped there.  When we left Booth Bay Harbor we planned an overnight passage to Provincetown, MA.  The winds were against us for this trip, however, so we beat against the wind until we reached Rockport, MA.  This was a distance of about 80 nautical miles, but we sailed 120 nautical miles to get there.  Beating against the wind is miserable.  Julie suffered from her worst bout of seasickness yet. 

When we finally arrived in Rockport we found the anchorage was okay for the south winds we were experiencing that evening, but a bit exposed to the north winds that began the next day.  The wind change was welcome however, and we had a beautiful sail with following seas.  Julie was enjoying the view of the rising Boston skyline when a humpback whale breached directly in her gaze.  It was better than a doctored postcard photo.  Julie yelled, “Whale!” and startled the whole crew with her exuberance.  We all saw the whale breach, and then one passed very close and showed his flukes.

 
Instead of heading directly to Provincetown we decided to stop in the Boston area and visit a West Marine to buy starter batteries with a good warranty and return policy.  This was a critical need as the engines could only be started if the generator was running.  There is no West Marine in Provincetown.  We had another excellent sail from the Boston Harbor to Provincetown.  The seas and winds were as high or higher than our miserable sail from Maine to Massachusetts, but because we were sailing with the wind and waves, Julie was able to shower, wash her hair and bake some delicious date bars during the day.

In Provincetown we enjoyed visiting some of the monuments to the Pilgrims, rode our bikes on the paved trails over the sand dunes, and bought groceries.  Then we rode out a gale for two days in the anchorage.  The gale was not comfortable, but the kids were able to get some schoolwork done.

As we started south again we enjoyed favorable winds and currents across Cape Cod Bay, through the Cape Cod Canal, and down Buzzards Bay.  We were doing so well that I decided to continue past our previously planned anchorage to Point Judith.  As we began to cross Rhode Island Sound the winds shifted to the South East.  This meant we were beating against the wind again.  We slipped into Point Judith Harbor of Refuge after dark with an appreciation for the harbor.  It is well named.

Mystic, CT was our next stop after a challenging close-hauled sail.  The waves were not too high however, and Julie did not suffer motion sickness.  It was a relief to anchor in a well-protected river that we knew from our first visit.  I went ashore here for provisions and to sell the small older dinghy that was taking up space in the starboard bow locker that now serves as the music conservatory.  While I was away the kids had a good day of schooling on the boat.

As we left Mystic we were following a recreation of the sailing ship Amistad and the Unicorn.  This was very helpful as the bridge tender was waiting for the Amistad, and we were able to catch up and follow them through.  On our way in we had to wait for about half an hour idling in front of the bridge for its next opening.  From Mystic we continued to Niantic to visit with the friends we made there on our first visit.  They were just as hospitable and helpful, serving us wonderful meals and taking us around town on errands.  Julie did some laundry, soaked in the tub, and visited the most unique and whimsical used bookstore, The Book Barn.  I purchased a replacement for the printer that was ruined when I tried to use it on the boat, and borrowed our friend’s color printer to make boat cards.  Boat cards are like business cards, and every cruiser needs to have them to share with new acquaintances.  The kids enjoyed some late birthday presents from our new friends, and enjoyed going to the park and the bookstore (both for the books and the cats).  Julie said she was so relaxed that it felt like we were on a retreat.

It is difficult to leave friends like those we met in Niantic, but it is the nature of our lifestyle, and the nights are getting colder, so on the last day of September we set off for Port Jefferson, NY for a quick overnight stay on our way back to the Chesapeake.